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As
the flame of Pakistan's small but increasingly significant fashion
torch moves into the 21st century, one integral question needs to
be asked: have we evolved a creativity genre which is indigenous
to our culture, or are we simply adapting western trends? With more
and more designers taking shows abroad, is the global market becoming
aware of a garment called the shalwar, or are Pakistanis just getting
better at wearing the pants? As collections get scantier, hemlines
higher and necklines deeper, conservative elements maintain that
what current Pakistani fashion promotes is totally alienated from
'Islamic culture'. But do history and religion alone define the
limits of a culture or is culture dictated by a changing national
psyche?
Many are quick to point
out that the sari is culturally symbolic of India and should therefore
not be promoted. But if the sari only symbolises India, then what
is Pakistani culture ? Wiping out all pre-Partition historical influences
is tantamount to erasing history itself. Right from the Indus Valley
Civilisation, the region has been invaded by multi-cultural forces.
Do we eradicate the influences of Alexander and the nomadic Parthians
and Kushans, who came into the North Western Frontier Province?
Do we wipe out the influence of Persia, the Muslim Arabs, who came
through Sindh, the Turks, who entered through Bengal or the Sikhs
from the Punjab? Should we then also demolish Mughal influence or
two centuries of the British Raj?
If anything, Pakistan is extremely fortunate to have this rich,
multi-cultural heritage as inspiration. Today's fashion is an amalgamation
of history and modernity, with cable TV being the single most influential
factor in changing current Pakistani lifestyles.
International fashion, too, has been influenced by South
Asia, particularly in the last five years. A glimpse of the Indian
subcontinent has been more than evident on international catwalks,
from the brocade borders at DKNY, mirror work on Prada skirts or
the British Raj in Armani prêt a porter. Our shalwars are
being adapted and our Punjabi kurtas have gained world wide recognition.
Our crafts too are becoming globally prominent, but unfortunately,
it is India that has grabbed the spotlight. It's time to market
ourselves in better packaging and launch Pakistan into the global
fashion market.
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