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Cookbook
Chef’s
Special
By
Shanaz Ramzi
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Tune
in to any channel featuring cookery shows that take
live calls and you will discover that chefs have
become the most revered figures after superheroes.
They have a cult following – the kind that
would turn even Amitabh Bachchan green with envy.
Newsline
interviews five culinary experts who have each developed
a huge fan following to get an inkling of what makes
them hot with Pakistani foodies.
Shai
is yet another chef who has received training abroad
and appears exclusively on Masala. A graduate of
the Institute of Culinary Education in New York,
she has worked for many famous restaurants in the
Big Apple, including Rock Center Cafe and California
Pizza Kitchen. Explaining how she got into this
field, she says, “I have a passion for cooking
and used to regularly prepare meals for friends,
which were always a great hit. So I thought it would
be a good idea to take it up as a profession. I
love to visit food markets of the world, eat in
good restaurants and never seem to get enough of
eating out. In fact, I absolutely love to try everything,
including the weirdest kind of foods, which one
cannot even imagine in Pakistan.”
Shai
says that Pakistanis are very fond of desi food
and she gets the most requests for biryani and nihari,
but the younger generation also asks her to make
all kinds of fast food. She adds, “I also
get a lot of requests for chocolate fudge cake,
which I have not made as yet! Some diet-conscious
people also want to learn about health food, such
as salads.”
A
fusion chef herself, Shai did her internship in
a French/Indian fusion restaurant in New York City,
which is probably why she thinks fusion is a great
way of introducing new flavours to our country,
where people don’t generally like to take
risks and try out new dishes. However, she does
feel that aside from local food, Pakistanis have
acquired a taste for Chinese cuisine and are also
quite fond of pizzas. On the other hand, Pakistanis
“haven’t really developed an inclination
for French food, which is without doubt the most
creative and finest cuisine in the world.”
Not
inclined to cook with ingredients that are not easy
to come by, Shai says, “I try to work with
local ingredients, unless I get too many requests
for something that requires ingredients not common
in Pakistan.” According to the chef, “Improvisation
is the key, whether it’s in culinary art or
any other art form. My original school recipes are
too difficult for most Pakistanis, so I improvise,
and deliver what people find easy to make.”
However, she does admit that there are “a
few dishes that people keep asking for. I would
love to see Pakistani food markets full of ingredients
such as artichokes, raspberries, blackberries, blueberries,
scallops, oysters, truffles and herbs like thyme
and chives – and dishes using them.”
Shai
agrees that the concept of healthy eating has taken
off in Pakistan. “Mostly people who are educated,
especially professionals, nowadays want healthy
food: salads, soup and mostly baked dishes. I myself
am very weight-conscious, but I also believe in
quality food, calorie counting and keeping track
of how many calories are being burnt through the
day. It’s about having a healthy lifestyle
and not just cutting down on fat and sugar.”
As
for her favourite food, Shai confesses, “I
am very moody when it comes to food. For me, pasta
is comfort food, while French food is adventurous,
as one discovers different levels of flavours, textures
and finesse in it; it’s luxury food. Pakistani
food is ‘anytime’ food that I grew up
with. I can also live on bread, butter and cheese,
which is my favourite, and, of course, mithai, which
I eat often.”
Shai
is optimistic that the deluge of food programmes
will manage to sustain themselves as Pakistanis
love to eat, since there is not much else to do.
She says, “The prime source of entertainment
is television these days, and people seem to enjoy
watching food shows rather than watching news, which
is always depressing.”
Tidbits
Your
favourite cookbook?
My favourite book is Kitchen Confidential by Anthony
Bourdain.
Your favourite restaurant?
My favourite restaurant is Daniel Boulud in New
York City.
Any particular food you want to learn how to cook?
I would love to learn pastry art/sugar work, etc.,
which is separate from the culinary arts.
Any one ingredient that you use the most and regard
as essential for flavouring your dishes?
Well, I have to say it’s salt, isn’t
it?
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