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Weeping
and wailing, Fatima waved frantically to her brother standing just
20 meters away on the opposite bank of the Neelum river that divides
this part of Kashmir between India and Pakistan. Desperate to communicate
after 14 years, they shouted across news about their families, but
their voices were drowned by the raging waters.
They were among thousands of Kashmiris, separated for decades
by the conflict between India and Pakistan, who had lined up along
the river for hours in heavy rain and cold weather, looking for
their family members. It was the first time in more than 20 years
that they had been allowed to come that close. They could not cross
over to embrace each other, but were close enough to exchange greetings
and throw letters weighted with stones across the river to their
relatives and friends.
Chiliana
village on the Pakistani side, and Tithwal on the Indian-controlled
side are cut in two by the river, about 25 miles east of Muzaffarabad,
capital of Pakistani-controlled Kashmir. Just two months ago, before
India and Pakistan agreed to a ceasefire as the result of the peace
process, this part of Kashmir had been the centre of fierce exchanges
of mortar and heavy machine-gun fire between the two armies. Villages
in the Neelum valley are littered with buildings destroyed by artillery
shells and pocked by gunfire.
The biggest benefit of the ceasefire has been that an Indian
machine-gun post no longer fires at vehicles and people travelling
on the Pakistani side. The once heavily fortified frontline has
now become a venue for family reunions after troops on both sides
moved back to the barracks.
In
recent days, residents on either side arranged to rendezvous, using
cell phones to get word across to family members to come to the
riverbank.
No official permission was granted, but authorities made
no move to stop the gathering. Entire families travelled to the
area on foot and bus, although many of them returned home in utter
frustration.
Younus
Shah, a 60-year-old schoolteacher stood on a rock with his wife
and daughter staring at the other side of the river in the hope
of spotting his eldest daughter who was separated 20 years ago when
the family crossed over to the Pakistani side. "She stayed
back with her husband," Mr. Shah said in a choked voice. "She
may be there but I can't spot her." His wife wept quietly as
the family walked back home after standing in the rain for hours.
Holding
her small baby, Zarina Bibi slipped into the river in excitement
when she saw her parents waving at her. She kept crying as the people
pulled her out from the freezing water. "Oh, my God they are
alive," she shouted hysterically. "I can't believe they
are standing right there." On both banks, relatives held back
family members on the verge of losing control over their emotions.
The highly emotional scene reflected the turmoil occasioned by the
56-year old division of the former princely state when India and
Pakistan achieved independence from Britain. Hundreds and thousands
of families were divided and thousands of others perished as the
two nations fought three wars over their claim to Kashmir.
The historic breakthrough in relations between the two countries
earlier this month has raised hope of reuniting families divided
at Partition. Both countries have started negotiations on opening
a bus service between Srinagar, the capital of Indian-controlled
Kashmir and Muzaffarabad. "I am looking forward to the day
when divided families can freely meet each other," says Khawaja
Fareed, a local trader whose brothers and an uncle are settled on
the other side.
The
end of the military standoff and normalisation of relations between
the two estranged neighbours has transformed the environment in
Pakistani-controlled Azad Kashmir. People have generally welcomed
President Musharraf's pledge to end Pakistan's support for Islamic
militants fighting Indian forces, after suffering the huge economic
and human cost of the long-standing conflict. The offices of militant
groups have shut down in Muzaffarabad after the withdrawal of support
from Pakistan, and this could be a harbinger of better days to come
for the war-torn region.
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